Bombetta’s menu is not executed perfectly, but there’s something here, among its small plates and sides, for everyone. Things I wanted but couldn’t find room for included: grilled watermelon, rainbow chard with garlic and chilli, octopus with basil, and hot smoked salmon with samphire and fennel. However, the small serving of homemade orecchiette was subtle but satisfying as pasta rarely is in restaurants. The zucchini fritti were crisp, hot and plentiful, but a side of grilled aubergine was soggy, albeit still edible. The bombette themselves can, if left a while, end up slightly dry, but then the home recipe salsa verde sauce to dip them in was perfect. Earthy, oily, confidently seasoned, rich. The fiery La Bombetta sauce, which I adored, is similar to a Turkish kebab house harissa and will knock your head off. I liked Bombetta’s tiramisu. Yes, it is runny, custardy, and, gasp, served in a glass, but it’s wholly decent. Classic tiramisu can often be powdery and stodgy, so any attempt to tinker with it I’ll forgive. This isn’t fine dining and this certainly is Snaresbrook but Bombetta, to my mind, is ever so slightly ‘the bomb’.
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